23rd may
B de Luchon - Vielha
So after a peaceful night we are on the road to spain. Waterfalls on the way up quite spectacular. Just crossing into spain the roads were in poor condition and the GR we were to follow was poorly marked. Into Bossot and went to chemist for ibrufen; 600mg was the dose she 'prescribed'. Everything seems really cheap! It really was hot and we were nearly melting by Vielha. Girl in tourist office awful, but the ladies in the VTT office were fab. Ended up hot and bothered with no camping so in basic hotel and cooked on very small balcony (no smoke alarms so it was fine).
highs - distance covered, bidet, fluffy towel
lows - tourist info girl, no campsite or campspot
note - buy legal drugs in spain
24th may
Vielha - Borda Perosa
as the sun came up we followed a very good path on the GR211, we knew we were in for a cooking day. Passed through villages that were very wealthy. We think it is to do with the skiing. They were beautiful, but we didn't take any pictures, of course.
There is still an awful lot of snow at 1600m; come on the wind and sun!
As we passed the ski station at Beret the horses and cows were just getting released into their summer pastures, great... Started to walk along the valley Aran, (it is beautiful) and heading for Montgarri refuge. It opens tomorrow, so on we went looking for nice river spot of night. Meet frenchman (funny that) who told us of spot next to refuge, over 2hours away which was lovely. Oh well its early we reasoned. Absolutely fantastic spot, but the cows founds us and we had to put up defenses of strings and sticks to keep them at bay. Must find out why Montgarri was abandoned.
highs - walking paths good, good incline, snow melting, cow defences worked
lows - fording rivers in bare feet, refuge full of mouse poo
note - naked ramblers almost caught
25th may
Borda Perosa - Rouze
headed off saying moo to the gentle coos. Climbing up towards the col d'Aula 2260m. The snow was melting but there was still many patches to cross, but watching a chubby marmot cross it we felt confident. There was a fair bit of wildlife round us - lemmings, isard, fox tracks. At the col we descended into soft snow to a shut cabin at 2150m which was brand new due to old one destroyed by a storm. Had an easy walk to col d'pause, where we stopped to watch a fox hunting 50m below us. The path now followed the gullys and we had overgrown paths to Conflens then a wood track up to Rouze. Planning to camp but the gite was wonderful and it was on a goats farm which sold fresh goat cheese!! so bought honey & lemon cheese, garlic & herb cheese and a young hard cheese. Watched the thunderstorm roll through. Then went to watch the goats being milked and the gite owners told us that the kids are used as meals for the gite. Sounds very sustainable to us. Also met a patou! She was really friendly :)
highs - col over 2000m, soft snow, gite goats, patou, cheese, no blisters, touched cow
lows - Lawr lectured on having an ice axe for the wet snow by french walker. Lawr patiently thanked him, then muttered muppet.
note - Lawr converted to goats cheese, although I ate most of it, apparently.
26th may
Rouze - Aulus les Bain
Took ages to get ready, we don't want to leave. Walked up and looked back over yesterdays col. it is quite far away now! Walked through some lovely but deserted hamlets, apart from one which is being lovingly repaired, with no road close it was some job, but it was 'guarded' by two enthusiastic dogs.
It was a cool morning through the trees,but the coffee rush was similar to that experienced on a sunday coffee stop. Through to St lizer where a guy was putting up new Gr signs. Lunch at the campsite epicere, with cheese, bread and 'fatigued fruits'. Had to take road from col latrappe as paths non existant. Rain and thunderstorms around us into Aulus, but the shops are shut! Off to campsite for warm shower and dry clothes. Tea in bandstand - the best balcony around. Wet weather due tomorrow but not going over 1800m.
highs - tree and hamlet walk, fantastic views, gite b/fast, cheese
lows - weather outlook, flipflops in rain
note - not worried about cows any more, we are in bear country.
27th may
Aulus les Bain - Vicdessos
woody walk next to streams. up to col de saleix. picked way around large cornice into lovely valley. Through trees to Auzut. Clouds forming, pitched tent asap and then the heavens opened. Have ordered some food with gite in next town.
highs - valley walk, dry in tent, late afternoon siesta
lows - Lawr burst my cup
note - it's now pentecost sunday, so no shops open again.
28th may
Vicdessos - Estang Laparan
rushed along road to get to gite for our rations. Bread and fruit. through trees to col at 1900m then down to 1700m to go back to 1900m then down to 1050m to back up to 1410m. Hard work on boulders and very steep in trees over roots, rocks and leaves. Visited cabin clarins and had a couple of tins of food. Decided to push on and go up towards dam to find nice campspot. River wash but flipflop came off, luckly it was trapped in eddie and rescued, by the fearless lone ranger. Anything for a damsel in distress he said!
highs - fruits, distance covered, sun and shade, c/spot
lows - distance covered, not knowing when to stop, blisters
note - best meal yet, cheese and apple sandwich - a valleys speciality apparently.
B de Luchon - Vielha
So after a peaceful night we are on the road to spain. Waterfalls on the way up quite spectacular. Just crossing into spain the roads were in poor condition and the GR we were to follow was poorly marked. Into Bossot and went to chemist for ibrufen; 600mg was the dose she 'prescribed'. Everything seems really cheap! It really was hot and we were nearly melting by Vielha. Girl in tourist office awful, but the ladies in the VTT office were fab. Ended up hot and bothered with no camping so in basic hotel and cooked on very small balcony (no smoke alarms so it was fine).
highs - distance covered, bidet, fluffy towel
lows - tourist info girl, no campsite or campspot
note - buy legal drugs in spain
24th may
Vielha - Borda Perosa
as the sun came up we followed a very good path on the GR211, we knew we were in for a cooking day. Passed through villages that were very wealthy. We think it is to do with the skiing. They were beautiful, but we didn't take any pictures, of course.
There is still an awful lot of snow at 1600m; come on the wind and sun!
As we passed the ski station at Beret the horses and cows were just getting released into their summer pastures, great... Started to walk along the valley Aran, (it is beautiful) and heading for Montgarri refuge. It opens tomorrow, so on we went looking for nice river spot of night. Meet frenchman (funny that) who told us of spot next to refuge, over 2hours away which was lovely. Oh well its early we reasoned. Absolutely fantastic spot, but the cows founds us and we had to put up defenses of strings and sticks to keep them at bay. Must find out why Montgarri was abandoned.
highs - walking paths good, good incline, snow melting, cow defences worked
lows - fording rivers in bare feet, refuge full of mouse poo
note - naked ramblers almost caught
25th may
Borda Perosa - Rouze
headed off saying moo to the gentle coos. Climbing up towards the col d'Aula 2260m. The snow was melting but there was still many patches to cross, but watching a chubby marmot cross it we felt confident. There was a fair bit of wildlife round us - lemmings, isard, fox tracks. At the col we descended into soft snow to a shut cabin at 2150m which was brand new due to old one destroyed by a storm. Had an easy walk to col d'pause, where we stopped to watch a fox hunting 50m below us. The path now followed the gullys and we had overgrown paths to Conflens then a wood track up to Rouze. Planning to camp but the gite was wonderful and it was on a goats farm which sold fresh goat cheese!! so bought honey & lemon cheese, garlic & herb cheese and a young hard cheese. Watched the thunderstorm roll through. Then went to watch the goats being milked and the gite owners told us that the kids are used as meals for the gite. Sounds very sustainable to us. Also met a patou! She was really friendly :)
highs - col over 2000m, soft snow, gite goats, patou, cheese, no blisters, touched cow
lows - Lawr lectured on having an ice axe for the wet snow by french walker. Lawr patiently thanked him, then muttered muppet.
note - Lawr converted to goats cheese, although I ate most of it, apparently.
26th may
Rouze - Aulus les Bain
Took ages to get ready, we don't want to leave. Walked up and looked back over yesterdays col. it is quite far away now! Walked through some lovely but deserted hamlets, apart from one which is being lovingly repaired, with no road close it was some job, but it was 'guarded' by two enthusiastic dogs.
It was a cool morning through the trees,but the coffee rush was similar to that experienced on a sunday coffee stop. Through to St lizer where a guy was putting up new Gr signs. Lunch at the campsite epicere, with cheese, bread and 'fatigued fruits'. Had to take road from col latrappe as paths non existant. Rain and thunderstorms around us into Aulus, but the shops are shut! Off to campsite for warm shower and dry clothes. Tea in bandstand - the best balcony around. Wet weather due tomorrow but not going over 1800m.
highs - tree and hamlet walk, fantastic views, gite b/fast, cheese
lows - weather outlook, flipflops in rain
note - not worried about cows any more, we are in bear country.
27th may
Aulus les Bain - Vicdessos
woody walk next to streams. up to col de saleix. picked way around large cornice into lovely valley. Through trees to Auzut. Clouds forming, pitched tent asap and then the heavens opened. Have ordered some food with gite in next town.
highs - valley walk, dry in tent, late afternoon siesta
lows - Lawr burst my cup
note - it's now pentecost sunday, so no shops open again.
28th may
Vicdessos - Estang Laparan
rushed along road to get to gite for our rations. Bread and fruit. through trees to col at 1900m then down to 1700m to go back to 1900m then down to 1050m to back up to 1410m. Hard work on boulders and very steep in trees over roots, rocks and leaves. Visited cabin clarins and had a couple of tins of food. Decided to push on and go up towards dam to find nice campspot. River wash but flipflop came off, luckly it was trapped in eddie and rescued, by the fearless lone ranger. Anything for a damsel in distress he said!
highs - fruits, distance covered, sun and shade, c/spot
lows - distance covered, not knowing when to stop, blisters
note - best meal yet, cheese and apple sandwich - a valleys speciality apparently.
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